It’s here. We’ve made it. The last and final destination on our 9-day European Tour. By some miracle, we managed to not miss a single bus or train, and all of them were on time to boot! So, here we are in bright and bustling Budapest.
It may have been us, travelling and seeing so much in the past week had really taken it out of us, but it seemed the world and its friend had also voyaged to Budapest. People of all nationalities were taking in the sights, although we did notice in particular there seemed to be groups of British people outside the bars.
31 hours in Budapest. Two days. The final two days of our wonderful, marvellous European Tour. Allons-y!
Accommodation Evaluation
Quite a walking distance from the city centre, but very quickly accessible by metro, we stayed in the Royal Park Boutique Hotel. We enjoyed the wonderful treat of free hotel breakfast in the morning on our last day in our final destination. What a send off. For anyone who doesn’t know, hotel breakfast is potentially my favourite food/meal type.
Royal Park Boutique Hotel – Double Standard, Free Breakfast – one night at £43.71
Check in was from 3pm, check out was from 11am, there was free WIFI and brekkie was serviced between 7am and 10:30am. It was a good breakfast with lots of variety: hams, cheeses, salads, breads etc. The room was clean, nicely decorated and even had a wee chocolate on our towels waiting for us. Cute! There was a tempting mini bar but we resisted the temptation to scoff the lot.
Similarly to all the other hotels we’d had the pleasure of visiting so far, a tourist tax was payable of a few euros per night. However, for this hotel, we needed to pay a deposit of 50€ in order to stay. All things considered, this was pretty pricey but we did get it back without any problems upon checkout.
I think because Budapest was, or seemed, bigger than other places we’d been to on this tour, it felt that comparatively we had to travel more to get to and from our hotel in relation to the city and the tourist attractions.
Voyage and Discover
We took the metro a couple of times, although I made no note of prices (sorry). I remember them being quick and reliable, although station closures were terribly signposted/communicated. We saw some pretty BIG things in our final destination. Everything in Budapest was pretty large: the river, castle, Bastion, Basilica etc. Once again, I used VisitACity to plan our itinerary and no, I’m in no way affiliated with them.
Hungarian National Museum
Without a doubt, this was a pretty building. Especially with the sun shining down on it. There were people milling around and relaxing in the grounds and on the steps. We had the intention of going inside and looking around, however, after walking through the busy streets with our bags, we decided to not go inside.
Instead, we spent a wee moment sorting out our bags, stretching and taking a sip of water. It was a humdinger of a day and we wanted to be outside a little longer to enjoy our final destination. Secondarily, from what I recall, the ticket price was a bit high. The current price on the website says 3500 HUF (so about £8.00 according to Google), which doesn’t seem bad but I just remember thinking that we’d rather not pay the price and stay outside in the sunshine. The prospect of shortly returning to overcast Scotland may or may not have influenced this decision.
Central Market Hall
Slightly nervous from our disastrous experience in Sofia, (read about that here), we braved the central market hall here in our final destination. Funny enough, not counting the decorative roof tiles reminiscent of the Croatian St. Mark’s Church and the Bratislava Town Hall, I thought there was something similar in the architecture of the Central Market in Sofia to the Budapest version. The mid-section with its arch, tri-window design and upper mini tower jutting upwards, the flanking buildings with similar window arches. What do you think?
Getting back to our visit there, the ground floor was mostly food stalls and the upper floor was mostly souvenirs and gifts. While it may be true that this gal loves her food, we weren’t feeling particularly famished at this moment in time and so we spent most of our time upstairs. My partner bought a traditional-looking tankard from one stall whilst I purchased a decorative A3-sized image of Budapest that I just adored. It’s just printed onto cardboard but it does look nice in my hallway 😊
Overall, we spent just less than an hour here. If you like shopping, or fancy some local market food, then this is a great place to visit. We are, however, unsure if you’re allowed to sit inside and eat…
Széchenyi Thermal Baths
Considered a must-do experience, the Széchenyi Thermal Baths are quite well-known and you’ll see ariel images of the beautiful outside areas of the building when researching Budapest.
We dropped our bags off at the hotel, checked in and then embarked on the approx. 30 minute-walk to the City Park in which the Thermal Baths is nestled. We had booked our tickets online in advance because we did not want to miss out on getting a space: we’d heard it was popular.
We paid 48€ for two tickets and a locker rental each. Despite the currency being Forint, the website charges you in €. Tickets can be found here, and they seem to have increased in price. Surprise, surprise. Private changing spaces were available to hire but we felt these were not worth it and so we just opted to change in the communal spaces.
Another key point is towels. You may not rent or borrow towels once there. It’s a ‘bring your own or buy a new one’ situation. Same with flip flops/footwear for around the pool.
They give you a wristband to wear with your locker key, as modelled by my gorgeous partner, pre-sopping shorts.
Amusing anecdote: Regrettably, I was handed my partner’s trunks whilst we were packing the bag to go to the baths and I then proceeded to pack everything else but the shorts, which I left folded on the bed. In the interest of saving money and baggage space for the journey home, he gallantly walked back to the hotel in sopping wet shorts, mildly cursing my name along the way.
The building itself was beautiful. It being night time when we left and there being some local foliage in the way, the photos I took were absolutely rubbish. Why didn’t I take photos on the way in? Because we were trying to be on time for our slot, sue me. In any case, the building was rather majestic.
Inside, the ceiling was incredibly ornate and reminded me almost of a church or a roman bath house. Particularly the carvings, statues and gold paintwork gave the impression of a very sophisticated and antique thermal bathing experience. In contrast, once inside the areas where the pools are, things were a little less sophisticated.
For the most part, the pools looked very normal and the inner walls and facilities quite old. There were many people and so space was fairly limited, if you had any at all. I don’t find that relaxing, not sure about you. We weren’t bothered about the saunas and steam rooms. Again, with so many people there were queues and it just wasn’t what we were interested in at that time.
On the other hand, the outside pool area was quite nice. It was fairly warm when the sun was hitting the pool but once gone, it became a bit chilly for any part of your person not submerged in the water. You’re outside but completely surrounded by the building which is a warm, bright yellow hue. There are some fountains and a strong current that flows around the centre ‘track’ of the pool. Consequently, you get groups of young adults congregating in this ‘track’. The fun attraction being that the water whisks you along and these fun-seekers try different tactics to make the water, and ergo themselves, move even faster. This can be noisy and even downright raucous at times, although it is a highlight, in my opinion.
Silverline Cruises Beer and Pizza
Similarly to the thermal baths, we booked this river cruise online before arriving on the continent. We paid £46.88 for two people. Basically, the premise is you arrive on the boat, they take you on a cruise up and down the Danube River and you can enjoy one pizza per person and unlimited beer and soft drinks.
The Danube River is a pretty darn impressive sight and seeing the Budapest skyline with the river in front of it, is truly a sight to see. The best view we got was when we went to the Fisherman’s Bastion on our last day, but we’re not there yet, hang on. The Danube River is the second-longest river in Europe and we got to sail along it in almost complete darkness.
In truth, we were told that all the buildings would be lit up and it would be a magical sight. This was true for the second half of our cruise but for the first part, everything was dark. My partner’s gran, who recently passed away, told us most fervently before we left Scotland that we had to go for a cruise down the river in Budapest. That’s something that she recalls from her visit there many years before that.
As our tour included pizza (tour we booked: Downtown Budapest Cruise with Pizza and Beer (not affiliated), the pizza choices had to be confirmed when booking and the menu was as follows:
- Ham and Corn Pizza (tomato sauce, ham, mushroom, sweet corn, and cheese);
- Hawaiian Pizza (tomato sauce, pineapple, ham, and cheese);
- Hungarian Pizza (tomato sauce, spicy sausage slices, red onion, sausage, and cheese);
- Four Cheese Pizza (tomato sauce, basil, and 4 different kinds of cheese);
- Salami Pizza (tomato sauce, salami, and cheese)
We both chose the Hungarian pizza, owing to the fact we were going to be hungry in Hungary and wanted to do as the Hungarians do when they’re hungry. Sorry, but I had to try and get it in somewhere! For photographic evidence, please head to the Bites and Beverages Section.
All in all, I’d say this tour was a good idea. Whilst it was expensive, it was good to enjoy some food and unlimited drinks for a bit of luxury. We couldn’t really make out much of what the guide/captain was saying over the speaker in the way of tourist interest and history etc., and the buildings were in complete darkness for some of the trip, but it was still enjoyable. Do try and seat yourselves far from any rowdy group of 10+ ‘lads’, as this also detracts from your experience when they are all you can hear….
Fröccsterass
So, we’re knacked due to this being our final destination of the Europe Tour. It’s our last night and so we don’t go home immediately after the river cruise. We discover an area where there is a large Ferris wheel and some market-style, almost pop-up bars. Later research tells me it’s called: Fröccsterass.
I’ve got to be honest; I was too tired to make notes. The blog was a mere pipe dream at this point and so I can’t give you very many details about this place. Nor did I snap any pictures. Soz.
What I can tell you, is that you must pay a wee deposit for the cups which is returned when you leave, the prices were fairly high and it wasn’t the most fun place. It was a bit of a mess. Dirty tables, floors and summing up, not where you wanted to be spending so much for so little. We stayed for one beverage and left.
Perhaps we caught it at a bad moment. Perhaps we, ourselves, were so exhausted that we didn’t have the energy for that kind of set up. Either way, we wouldn’t recommend based on our brief visit.
Fisherman’s Bastion and Matthias Church Tower
Undeniably the highlight of our final destination. This impressive towering decorative fortification was never actually used as a fort or defensive building. Built between 1895 and 1902 to celebrate the 1000th birthday of the Hungarian state, you can visit the Bastion for free, so long as you don’t go into certain towers.
It was built on top of a part of the original castle walls that. way back when, were protected by the guild of fisherman and many moons ago, saw many a conflict. For more history, including restoration information, you can check out the official Fisherman’s Bastion website.
To repeat, this place was a highlight. You can’t go to Budapest and not see this beautiful fairy-tale building. You can access a couple of towers for free, although some towers you must pay for. In the same fashion as the museum the previous day, we decided not to pay the entrance for these towers. Moreover, soaking in those brilliant ‘free’ views satisfied us just fine. We couldn’t imagine they’d be any better from the paying towers.
In the middle of the Bastion is a very detailed statue of Stephen I of Hungary, erected in 1906, and just behind it, is Matthias’ Church. The roof of the church is an eye-catching and impressive mosaic. There is no image or emblem like in Zagreb’s St. Mark’s Church, rather the roof is on fire with colour and geometric designs Similar idea to the Central Market, although here they took that idea and just ran with it. Warm colours of orange, yellow and white and in fact, I’ve never seen a roof like it, have you?
Never being able to resist a good tower, we paid tickets to climb the Matthias’ Church Tower. A guide gave us some information before we went up, including how many steps we’d be climbing (as if we hadn’t walked enough these past 9 days). You can get a ticket for just the church or just the tower, or a combined ticket. We decided to just get the tower ticket and the current (Jan 2024) price of this is 2900 HUF each adult.
Boy, we thought it was worth it. The panoramic city views of the Danube River and across to the parliament buildings were absolutely gorgeous and really awe inspiring. Looking down onto the marvellously mosaiced roof was also so, so cool.
Without reservation, the photos do not do this whole area justice. Just go.
Buda Castle
Located just along from the Fisherman’s Bastion, Buda Castle stands tall over the Danube River and the city of Budapest. From the other side of the river, it looks impressive and at night, when it’s lit up, it’s a sight to see. At the same time, I’d keep it there. The other side of the river, I mean. Up close, I personally didn’t think it was all that.
Even though we did not go inside the castle, just around and about the walls and outer parts, there wasn’t anything that jumped out and made me want to go in. It looks like a government building up close, but with a couple of beautiful architecturally decorative parts that give of a ‘Palace vibe’.
I find it hard to write anything else about it as we chose to spend our time elsewhere 😊
St. Stephen’s Basilica
The final destination of our final destination was this impressive and large church, or basilica.
Tantalising titbit: What makes a basilica a basilica and not a common or garden church? Special privileges granted by the pope, apparently. They are the top tier of churches: they have the highest permanent designation. Cathedrals are lower down the ladder than basilicas, being just the ‘seat’ of a bishop in a particular diocese. Bet you didn’t know that.
Finally, the stained-glass windows were quite epic. I love a good stained-glass window. These had large images of named saints in the middle and surrounded by arches, geometric patterns and then on the very outside, detailed images of fruit collections. Pineapples, oranges, and grapes wrapped up with flowers, to name just a few.
The St. Stephen’s Basilica in Budapest stands at the head of a large square, and cuts an impressive silhouette. Architecturally quite classic, it has a dome in the middle, flanked by two towers of similar height and above the grand entrance is a triangle full of intricately carved people. In Latin, there are the words “EGU SUM VIA VERITAS ET VITA”: I am the way and the truth and the life.
Firstly, I really like the outside of this place of worship. At first glance, it’s relatively simple but upon closer inspection, it’s got intricate carvings and patterns, and a beautiful golden painted scene above the door.
Secondly, the inside was really ornate and I loved the golden ceiling with its many patterns and individual paintings which seem like playing card court cards. The time, effort and expense that must have gone into it was stunning. It felt very ‘European’ in design with the colour scheme feeling very Eastern European, which of course makes perfect sense given where we were.
As it was our final destination, of our final destination, we were short on time as we had a plane to catch. For that reason, we opted not to go to the tower/panoramic terrace and just paid entrance for the churchy bit. I didn’t make a note of the price at the time, but today (Jan ’24) it would be 2300 HUF or about a fiver to go up the tower. Price list here (not affiliated).
Heart-shaped Bottle Top Collection Point
Okay, so this isn’t a tourist attraction. It’s a local recycling initiative. In truth, I am very passionate about reducing waste and living sustainably. We came across this little beauty close to the Fisherman’s Bastion and Matthias’ Church and I couldn’t help but snap a picture with it. A bit more than a council’s recycling bin, it’s an equally important piece of urban landscaping one might class as ‘art’.
An awesome find in our final destination!
I tried to do some research on this initiative and all I could find was this news article which refers to the plastic tops being donated to raise money for charitable causes. If anyone has any more information on these hearts, especially this one, please fire it over and let me know!
Bites and Beverages
Ladies, gentlemen and everything in between and around, we have come to the final destination’s food and drink overview. Excited?
Honestly, all things considered, I cannot fathom why we weren’t a size 2 when returning home. We walked for miles, climbed towers, and crossed rivers and yet we didn’t seem to eat all that much. Indeed, the first day in Budapest, we ate nothing but the pizza on the cruise, if my memory serves me correctly. The second day, after wolfing down our lovely hotel breakfast, we sat down to try a Hungarian dish as a late lunch and that’s all the meals we had in the country.
My darling beer lovers, for info on the beers I tried, as well as the craft beer bar ‘Beer Brothers’, please head to Volume Beer (when it’s out) for that goodness.
The Pizza
To repeat, this was a Siverline Cruises tour which came with one pizza per person. We got the Hungarian Pizza (tomato sauce, spicy sausage slices, red onion, sausage, and cheese).
There was really no way for me to take off the red onion, so I just had to get on with it but overall, it was a pretty decent pizza. I don’t remember it being the best pizza on earth but certainly, I’ve had much worse. We polished them off, no problem at all.
Restaurant Dunacorso
We checked out a couple of places before deciding to eat at this place. Everywhere we’d seen, it was written on the menu or on a board that service charge was added on to the bill, it wasn’t optional. I really hate this whenever I go anywhere. Most places, however, it’s not obligatory. We appreciated, however, that it was written on the menu prior to us ordering. It gave us at least the chance to take that into consideration when choosing where to eat.
The whole time I was in Hungary, (don’t worry, I’m not going to do the hungry Hungary pun again), I was wanting to try Goulash: the only Hungarian dish I’d heard of. It’s basically a Hungarian beef stew:
Gulyásleves tálban – Goulash in a Bowl (size, as opposed to a cup) 3690 HUF
I found this specific goulash to be fairly thin, but nevertheless tasty and enjoyable. I’d certainly have it again and even looking at the image makes me want to have some.
The restaurant itself was fairly posh-looking from the outside, and you could see across the river from its outside sitting area. It was really relaxing a pleasant sitting there soaking up some last few rays in our final destination.
Click here for the restaurant’s menu.
A fantastic end to our fantastic final destination, and our fan-dabi-dozi European tour. Engrossing is totally the right word as we did so much, saw so much and enjoyed ourselves so much. I can’t wait to do another big trip like this, but of course it isn’t a trip one undertakes lightly.
If you’ve followed my journey and made it this far, thank you so much for reading. I hope you’ve enjoyed this series and feel inspired for your own voyages. Any questions or comments, please reach out via email, Insta or simply leave a comment.
If you’ve missed any of the Engrossing Europe instalments, you can find them at the below links:
Although it’s not all over just yet… the final instalment, and the one many have been waiting for, is just around the corner. Therefore, keep your ears to the ground for Engrossing Europe: Volume Beer where you can read my personal notes on the beers tried along the way, right up to our final destination. Photos are included, for your viewing pleasure.
See you there, cheerio!
