I loved Zagreb. What a difference from overcast, opprobrious Sofia. 22 hours we had to look around and get a taste. And a tasty taste we did get. Read about the city landmark we saw and the traditional food and even the magic in the air (or in the shop…)
The third stop on our incredible 9-day European Tour back in March 2022 was the capital city of Croatia. We’d just travelled 12 hours overnight on a Flixbus from Sofia to Zagreb. Mixed feelings of disappointment with our Sofia experience and excitement for Zagreb, we stepped off the bus into the sunshine and our day began.
Accommodation Evaluation
We decided to book our accommodation through AirBnB this time. This decision was down to price as we were back to budget-friendly bookings after splashing out on the panoramic room in Sofia.
Small studio flat – one night at £24.41
The flat was close to the city centre and had everything we needed. It wasn’t a large space but for one night, it was worth it. It was private, we could shower, watch a bit of TV and rest our heads on a bed that wasn’t moving on wheels.
I’d recommend this accommodation; I think we’d certainly go back if the price was still good. I find AirBnB a bit hit and miss. I’ve only used it a couple of times but on this occasion, it was a hit.
Voyage and Discover
As usual, I had made an itinerary for our one day in Zagreb prior to arrival. However, we deviated a fair bit from it, for one reason or another: closures, preference and timings.
Whilst we saw the Museum of Mimara and Art Pavilion from the outside, we changed our minds and wanted to spend more time outside in the sun, taking in the beautiful city. It was a very welcome 18°C. The Tesla Museum was closed, and we instead spent some time at a fabulously geeky boutique. We didn’t rush, we took it easy and had a really great time.
Zagreb Cathedral
This was our first stop, straight from the bus. Firstly, we hadn’t known Zagreb had suffered a 5.5 magnitude earthquake in March, 2020. This earthquake caused serious damage to the cathedral and meant that it was no longer safe to visit and they had started with renovations and works to protect and strengthen the cathedral.
Due to these works and damage, the cathedral was completely closed to the public. It’s still worth looking at; it’s a beautiful city landmark. Consecrated in August, 1217, this cathedral is an icon of the city and can also be seen from all over it.
Reading up on the restoration works, it has been said that the full restoration of the cathedral may take up to ten years to complete. And that’s if they can complete it at all. After all, in August, some scientists cited the impossibility of finding the same stone to reconstruct the cathedral. There are quarrying bans currently in place where the stone was originally dug out. You can read more here. They hope to be able to hold services in the cathedral by the end of this year (2023).
Dolac Market
Close to the cathedral, this farmer’s market sells not only fresh fruit and vegetables, but also gifts and souvenirs by the truckload. We were surprised by how large the market was. There were many people, so I’d naturally keep an eye out for pickpockets but we did not see any.
I’d recommend visiting this exciting market, even to just for a look around. It’s not open during the evenings or night times: a day-time only market. Click here for the opening times.
Stone Gate
This is a curious place. Not so much a gate, more like a small tunnel. It was built in the 1200s as one of four main gates leading to the medieval town. ‘Inside’, there’s a shrine to the Virgin Mary and a huge and intricate iron fence which protects the painting of the Mother of God.
Within the gate passage, you will see names and words carved onto stone tiles and bricks. We even saw one with my partner’s surname on it. These are to praise and say thank you to the Lady Virgin for her protection. Tantalising titbit: Head there at 8pm on a Tuesday to share in or watch locals praying and singing, or so I read online (it wasn’t a Tuesday for us).
Lotrščak Tower
This was pretty cool; a must-see. For 3€ (current price, correct as of Nov ’23), you can climb to the top of the tower and see a panoramic view of Zagreb. In particular, enjoy a ‘higher’ perspective of city landmark Zagreb Cathedral, and the famously colourful St. Mark’s Church. We paid in Kuna, of course, back in March 2022. 3€ would be 22,60 HRK, according to the website. You can take the funicular railway to get to this tower from the lower town, or walk through the stone gate and up instead, as we did.
As a building, however, it sort of resembles a prison. It’s just one straight, white tower that certainly jumps out at you, but also isn’t really an attractive building, in my mind. Maybe that’s why I didn’t take a photo of the actual building. Hmmm. Built in the mid to late-1200s, this tower was originally only two floors, it is thought. Then after 1857, it was extended by a further two floors. Read more on the official website here.
Over the years, it’s been used as a commercial warehouse, a café and also for residential purposes. A cannon is fired at noon every day from the fourth floor, and this first happened on New Year’s Day, back in 1877 (a break of 13 years during/after WW1).
Ban Josip Jelačić Square
A very picturesque square in the centre of the city. The buildings are colourful and with gorgeous designs. In short, it’s a very ‘European’ feel. There are cafés around and trams passing by. Definitely just go.
There is a statue of a man brandishing his sword on a horse, apparently Croatian war hero Count Josip Jelačić. He died of syphilis despite his horse having a leg in the air (usually symbolises the rider dying of war wounds).
Way back when, where this square is today, stood a local food market names Harmica. This word comes from Hungarian and translates to ‘tax’. It was called tax because those selling their wares at the market had to pay a large portion of their income to have the right to sell at this market. A bit like a car boot sale in the U.K., only for food.
Very nice, very pretty and very cultural. Just go 😊
St. Mark’s Church
I have never before seen a church like it. The whole roof was a detailed, tiled mosaic coupled with vibrant colours. It displays the medieval coat of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia on the left side, and the emblem of Zagreb on the right.
Unquestionably captivating. I would whole-heartedly advise you don’t miss this city landmark.
Yet another of the city’s buildings built in the 1200s, it’s nestled in amongst the Croatian parliament buildings. And keeping with the mini theme of the city, it was closed to tourists when we went. According to the wide web, it’s still closed one year and seven months later. Yet another after-effect of an earthquake from 2020, such a shame.
Carta Magica Shop
This place is magical. If you are not a Harry Potter fan (what’s wrong with you?), then this is not the shop for you.
It was indeed the shop for me. Santa, if you’re listening, I’d like that, and that, and that….
A huge Harry Potter statue in the centre of the room, the shelves are laden with interesting, unusual and special objects. We spent a good amount of time, combing through all the magical items and chatting to the owner/shopkeeper who was indeed a huge Harry Potter fan and, if I remember rightly, a Slytherin himself.
If you’re passing by, I would certainly pop your head in. They sell other stuff besides Harry Potter, other fandom-type merchandise, as well as table-top games. A real geek’s paradise. The business’ website is: https://www.cartamagica.hr/ (I’ve no affiliation).
Bites and Beverages
We only ate one meal in Croatia but it was absolutely awesome. We wanted a traditional restaurant to grab some grub in the evening and that’s exactly what we got.
Konoba Didov san
Translated as ‘Grandpa’s Dream’, this quaint and quality-aplenty restaurant was not only a sight for sore eyes, but gave us a marvellous insight into Dalmatian and Croatian traditional food. Stone and brick walls with wooden beams, old photos decorate the walls as well as antique furniture and tools. Click here for location.
Starters: Zapečeni štrukli and Uštipci with Two Homemade Cheeses.
Main Courses: Frogs Legs grilled with Dalmatian Smoked Ham and Potatoes and Grandpa’s Pan
Zapečeni štrukli
This Croatian dish is especially popular in Zagreb, so my research tells me. Categorised as a sort of dumpling, fresh and salty cheese, eggs, butter, salt and a bit of sugar are combined to make a filling for some dough. They are boiled and then baked in an oven topped with heavy cream and/or sour cream.
In truth, this was not the highlight of the meal for me; it’s not really my thing. But I was so glad to try it.
Uštipci
These are described as doughnuts; however, they are more like doughnut holes. Round, fried doughballs, they came served with two homemade cheeses. When eaten together, it was the epitome of simple goodness. I’m not really a fried dough kind of gal, but I’m certainly a cheese kind of gal. In sum, I’d definitely recommend.
Frog Legs
Oh my days. Now, here’s the highlight. A real delight, they were grilled beautifully and were so tasty. Stereotypically tasting like chicken, they were not dry and the smoked ham really added to the dish. Look at the shape of those legs! Wouldn’t want to be up against that frog in a kickboxing match!
They were so good, but we were so full of cheese that I boxed these up to finish later. And later turned out to be the train ride to Bratislava through the snowy Austrian mountains. Perfection.
Grandpa’s Pan
This was essentially meat with roasted vegetables and potatoes. Simple, rustic, hearty and good. My partner really enjoyed it and that’s all there is to say 😊
Kuna and Lipa – Croatia’s Ex-Currency
Since 1994 up until January 2023, Croatia’s currency was the Kuna. 100 Lipa made up 1 Kuna. Simples.
Kuna translates to ‘Marten’, a weasel-like animal, and in medieval times, the Croatians used their skin and fur as payment. Lipa translates to Linden or Lime Tree, which is also related to trade. Croatia was one of the countries that made up Yugoslavia and in 1991, following the dissolution and country’s independence, they chose to keep the dinar until 1994.
These are pieces from my coin and banknote collection. A couple of bits of which I picked up on these travels, some I already had/got elsewhere. The bottom 4 banknotes were all in circulation when I was there last year. On the 1, 2 and 5 Kuna coins, you can see the pine marten jumping ‘across the coin’. A moment of silence as these coins bow out. They’ll live on in our collections, and the memories of those that used them. The Euro is now the current currency of Croatia (try saying that five times faster!), with at least one commemorative 2€ already out for collectors.
I honestly can’t wait to go back to Croatia. I really enjoyed it: from the music, to the food and nor forgetting the architecture. If anyone has any recommendations for next time, or hidden gems that are fun or just awesome, let me know in the comments. Also, what do you think of the new currency?
Next up, we’re taking an early train to Maribor, Slovenia. This will be our fourth country in our 9-day European Tour. We’ve done: Madrid, Sofia and Zagreb.
Choo choo! See you there!
